For the past few years, a row has been rumbling over pork pies. It is a dispute between the Melton Mowbray Pie Association, which wants to limit the use of its name to producers within a specified radius of the namesake town, and large-scale raised-pie manufacturers who trade on the name, but make their pies nowhere near Melton Mowbray's native Leicestershire.

While the "real" Melton Mowbray bakers' protectionist stance is understandable, it is the content of pork pies that matters most. In a perfect world, they would be made with a high percentage of fresh, welfare-friendly pork and wrapped in a casing of pastry made with lard. Sadly, this is not often the case.

WHAT KIND OF PORK IS IN THE PIES?
Ideally, the meat should be British and from pigs that have been reared to a bigh standard of animal welfare. Unfortunately, there are a lot of pies on the market made with meat from intensively reared pork.that may not even be British.

Labelling laws allow manufacturers to call pork pies British as long as they are processed in this country - a loophole that ridicules the growing demand for traceable meat.

HOW ARE MOST PIGS REARED?
Compassion in World Farming (CIWF) says that 70 per cent of pigs in Britain are reared intensively indoors, in groups. The Government-approved space allowance for pigs (breeding sows arid weaners) varies according to their size. For example, 0.4 square metres is the allowance for pigs weighing between 30kg and 50kg - a tight squeeze. The bedding should be straw, but farmers can use other material, such as wood shavings, sawdust, hay, mushroom compost and peat.

The law allows farmers to give pigs footballs or chains to "play with", which is condemned by CIWF, becau both make unsatisfactory replacements for foraging material. Sows about to give birth are put in farrowing crates to restrict their movement and prevent piglets from being crushed. Piglets and sows remain in crates for four weeks, befcn\ being moved into indoor pens. The average lifespan of breeding sows is three years and the average breeding is rive litters of piglets.

HOW DOES PIG WELFARE DIFFER ABROAD?
The RSPCA says that intensive pig rearing in Britain is much less cruel than that permitted in EU countries. Tethering sows in crates throughout their pregnancies, therefore for most of their lives, is still permitted and tails are docked and teeth clipped to prevent bored pigs eating each other. Pigs living in such conditions have no quality of life. They are used until exhausted, then they are disposed of. British manufacturers can easily "slip this meat (or pork lard) which they have sourced abroad into pies, without having to reveal its origins.

IS NATURALLY REARED MORE EXPENSIVE?
Yes. You will have to pay up to twice as much, but even organically reared pork is good value, especially when used in pies, because the cheaper cuts lend themselves well to pie recipes.

SHOULD THE MEAT BE PINK?
No. Authentic pies are made with fresh, not cured, pork and should be a grey-white colour inside. A pink interior indicates that the pie is either made with cured pork or possibly contains food colouring.

HOW ABOUT THE PASTRY?
The crisp, often heavy pastry is hot water crust, made with hot, melted lard, water and white flour. It is a good casing because the fat in it keeps it crisp, even though it contains juicy meat and jelly.

Labels regularly show that bakers have used hydrogenated fat, which contains trans fats, instead of natural lard. Do not be fooled into thinking that trans fats are better for you. Too much lard may be bad for the heart, but trans fats are linked to a far greater number of health problems.

WHAT IS IN THE JELLY?
The jelly is a stock brewed from pork bones. Poured into the pastry after the pie has cooked and cooled, it protects the pie from drying out.

SHOULD PIES HAVE STRAIGHT SIDES?
Genuine Melton Mowbray bakers say they shouldn't. Pies with straight sides are cooked in a hinged metal cylinder that is removed when the pie is nearly cooked so the sides can brown.

WHAT IS IN SUPERMARKET PIES?
Read the label, looking for totally natural ingredients - there should be no hydrogenated fat and no monosodium glutamate - and a high percentage of meat, at least 40 per cent. Buy pies that contain guaranteed British meat and don't be fooled by the use of the "Melton Mowbray" tag. For example, Morrison's sells a "Vale of Mowbray" pie made from pork ''sourced in the EU" and its Melton Mowbray pie is made with Danish pork fat. Marks & Spencer uses Danish fat in all but its "hand-finished pork pie" and "uncured pork pie". The Co-op and Waitrose use 100 per cent British pork. Incidentally, Pork Farms, which is part of Northern Foods, is fighting DEFRA's backing of a Protected Geographical Indication (PCI) for Melton Mowbray. Several attempts were made to contact Pork Farms about the provenance of the meat used in its pork pies, but no answers I were provided.

WHERE CAN I BUY 100 PER CENT BRITISH PORK PIES?

Ginger Pig, 8-10 Moxon Street, London W1 (020 79351788).
Truly delicious pies made by hand in a butcher's shop with meat from specialist breeds.

Handmade Food Company, from Emmett's of Peasenhall, Saxmundham, Suffolk (01728 660250), Partridges, 2-5 Duke of York Square, London SW3 (020 7730 0651), and Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1 (020 7734 8040).
Pies that are really worth seeking out (unfortunately, not available by mail order). They are made with meat from Gloucester Old Spot pigs.

FC Phipps, Mareham le Fen, Boston, Lincolnshire (01507 568235, mail order).
Exceptional pies made from Berkshire and Gloucester Old Spot pork.

Dickinson & Morris, 10 Nottingham Street, Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire (01664 482068, mail order).
The company is campaigning for a PGI for the original Melton Mowbray pie recipe on behalf of the Pdrk Pie Association. Dickinson & Morris uses 100 per cent British pork despite being a larger manufacturer.

Emmetts of Peasenhall
Partridges
Fortnum and Mason
FC Phipps